[Paris bakery / 巴黎麵包店] Sain Boulangerie (for English, please click "see more") 🥐🥖🍞
昨日和從科隆來訪的好友一起在聖馬丁運河附近拜訪了一家我一直想去的麵包店—— Boulangerie Sain。這家麵包店在去年 11 月開幕，主廚 Anthony Courteille 原本是廚師，曾在西班牙五星級飯店餐廳與巴黎知名的二星餐廳 Grand Véfour 工作，後來在 Sain 的原址開了自己的餐廳 Matière A。
之所以從廚師轉向麵包，除了自己的興趣之外，也因為他希望能夠扭轉工業化為麵包業帶來的惡名。他曾在接受巴黎媒體 Le Parisien 的訪問時提到，現在越來越多消費者對麩質過敏，其實正是使用工業化改造麵粉與大量添加物，讓麵包能快速發酵、生產的製程影響。他希望能藉著使用未改造的古老小麥麵粉、天然酵母、長時間發酵、手工揉橄麵糰等傳統麵包工藝，為現代的消費者帶來更健康的選擇。這也是他的麵包店之所以取名為「Sain」（法語中「健康」之意）的緣由。同一個訪問中 Anthony 還提及，自己的父母都是農民，也是工業化要求大量產出的受害者，他特別希望自己的努力能夠重拾麵包素樸且高貴的形象。
他自己以烤過的乾草和浸漬蘋果皮製作天然酵母，維也納麵包類（viennoiserie）則是使用自製的牛奶酵母發酵，麵團的香氣與彈性和一般市售麵包完全不同。Sain Boulangerie 店面雖小，但各種麵包樣樣俱全，招牌大型圓麵包名為「le Saint-Martin」，呼應位於巴黎聖馬丁運河的店址、與成為街坊麵包店的用心；店門口小小的櫃台擺滿了多種早餐與點心麵包與簡單的糕點，如美式餅乾、胡蘿蔔蛋糕、布朗尼、檸檬蛋糕等。後面的架上則有各種能搭配餐點的鹹麵包，Anthony 將自己過去身為廚師的經驗運用在製作麵包上，創作出如能和鬆軟蛋包搭配的蕎麥蘑菇麵包、適合與燻魚搭配的墨魚汁麵包、與清淡起司搭配的黑蒜榛果麵包等，簡直是麵包愛好者的天堂。如果我就住在旁邊，想必也是會經常光顧！
記得點照片看更多細節！ 👇🏻
🔖 延伸閱讀：
高貴的日常－麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399
法式甜點關鍵詞－甜點與麵包的分界：https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd
*****
Finally paid a visit yesterday to Sain Boulangerie with a friend of mine from Köln. I’ve been thinking to go for a while but never got time. Sain opened about a year ago. Anthony Couteille, the chef boulanger used to be a cook and has worked at some restaurants at palaces hotels in Spain as well as at Grand Véfour, two Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. He opened his own restaurant Matière A on the same address which is transformed to Sain Boulangerie last year.
He has decided to become a boulanger not only because bread is a real passion for him but also because he wants to change the bad image the industrial bread has left to the whole profession. In his interview with Le Parisien, he mentions that the modern gluten intolerance and allergy are resulted from the use of modified flours and additives which accelerates the fermentation and production process of the bread. By using non-modified ancient wheat flours, natural yeast, adopting slow fermentation process. and hand-kneading, Anthony wishes to remind consumers that bread could be very healthy. And that is exactly why his bakery is named as “Sain” (“healthy" in French). In that same interview, he also stresses that his parents were farmers during the agricultural industrialisation and became victims of the latter to quickly increase the farm yields. He hopes that his efforts to bring back the traditional craftsmanship would also regain the nobility of bread in our daily lives.
He makes his own yeast out of grilled hay and macerated apple peels. A milk yeast cultivated by himself is used for the viennoiseries which results in an remarkable scent and texture that are completely different from ordinary ones. Though not a big boutique, Sain Boulangerie offers a wide range of bread. The “Saint-Martin”, the signature bread of the bakery combines chestnut flour and grilled einkorn and ancient wheat flowers. Lots of great viennoiseries and simple pastries such as cookies, carrot cakes, brownies, lemon cakes are displayed on the little counter at the storefront, on the shelves behind, savoury bread to go with different dishes are also available. Utilising past experiences as a cuisiner, Anthony has created lots of interesting flavours such as buckwheat and mushroom bread to go with fluffy omelettes, squid ink bread to go with smoked fish, black garlic and hazelnut bread with cheese, etc. A heaven for all the bread lovers indeed! I would definitely become one of the loyal customers f I lived in the neighbourhood!
Click on the photos to find out more! 👇🏻
🔖 To read more on this topic:
Bread is a rising star in Paris: https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399
The fine line between pastries and bread: https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd
#yingspastryguide #boulangerie #bread #paris #sainboulangerie
fermentation bread 在 How Bread Dough Temperature Affects Fermentation - YouTube 的八卦
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