巴黎聖日耳曼外套的八卦，PTT、DCARD、YOUTUBE和Yahoo名人娛樂都在討論

#佑群老師的私藏歐洲購物名單公開
#米蘭與巴黎4間最值得逛的古董選貨店及帽子訂製店🇮🇹🇫🇷
#品味從選店開始

Chanel、Louis Vuitton、Hermes⋯⋯我想這些是大部分的人到歐洲旅行購物時腦海中立刻浮現的字彙，我也一樣，在歐洲工作有空檔的時候，也想要好好的血拚，不過比起觀光客大排長龍的名牌店，我更喜歡在隱沒巷弄中的選貨店尋找自己衣櫃中的新成員，它可能是米蘭小巷裡的古董服飾店，也可能是巴黎知名部落客開設的二手名牌店、潮流選貨店，甚至是聖日耳曼可以自己設計巴黎帽子的有趣商店。

跟著我的腳步，好好把這些名單收藏下來，下次如果有機會去的時候，搞不好會遇到我唷！

#米蘭老奶奶開的古董服飾店ilCameo
藏匿於義大利米蘭巷弄中，由畫廊改建的古董服飾精品店il Cameo，由超過七十歲的老奶奶和一位設計師經營，這𥚃掛滿了五彩繽紛的各種品牌服飾、包包、皮箱、珠寶飾品，連衣刷都找得到。你可能在這兒會發現二十年前Dior 的水桶包、愛瑪仕的絲巾，或是YSL 的西裝外套。老闆不時會向你解說各單品背後的故事，不過老奶奶聽不懂英文。我的Dior 古董天鵝絨綠包、Hermes雙面飛行外套、全世界獨一無二的聖母子手工刺繡夾克，都是在這兒尋獲的，每一件單品皆靜靜躺在角落，等著與你相遇。
地址：Via San Carpoforo 6, 20121, Milano
電話：+39 (0)2 349 2448263

#巴黎知名部落客創立的二手精品店RoseMarketVintage
和我一樣喜歡老東西的人，來到巴黎如果想要找尋70年代古董Chanel 大衣或手袋，妳更不能錯過這間被譽為巴黎最值得逛的古著精品店 Rose Market Vintage。它是由在巴黎與義大利時裝圈小有名氣，親切愛笑的部落客Florence所創立的，她因為太愛蒐集古董的精品，同時又在經營部落格，才決定開設二手服飾店。Chanel、Saint Laurent、Chloe、Dior、Hermes⋯⋯你想得出來的精品品牌這兒都不缺乏。在店裡你可以用手細細觸碰著70年代的經典印花長洋裝或流蘇夾克，感受那個年代的工藝與質感。
地址： 5 Rue Hippolyte Lebas, 75009 Paris, France
電話：‭+33 9 86 28 10 81‬

#巴黎十七區的一線潮流精品選貨店LESPIONNE
L'ESPIONNE 是一間位於巴黎十七區有著一線精品和潮流精品的選品店，包括Saint Laurent、Givenchy、Dior、Off-White等各大品牌最新一季的秀款，不管是這幾年流行的街頭潮流風格或精品正裝都可以找到，超過26個品牌精品，男女裝都齊全，對我來說治裝很方便，可以應付我各種場合的服裝需求。
住址：Palais des Congrès
2 place de la Porte Maillot 75017 Paris FRANCE
電話：Femme : 01 40 68 23 32 Homme : 01 40 68 23 36

#巴黎左岸可以客制化獨一無二帽子的LaCerisesurleChapeau
巴黎午後，有機會不妨走進左岸聖日耳曼有繽紛馬卡龍色的訂製帽子店La cerise sur le chapeau，訂製專屬於你心中巴黎風的帽子。天生有好品味的巴黎人喜歡在穿著時搭配帽子。在這裡提供全訂製或半訂製的服務，選擇帽型、尺寸、緞帶和裝飾完，三個小時後就能優雅地戴上它走在巴黎街上讓路人稱羡。我很推薦給遲遲找不心愛帽子的你。
住址：11 Rue Cassette, 75006 Paris, France
電話 : 01 45 49 90 53

關於各家店詳細介紹的影片及文章連結都在留言中👇

#Travel #shopaholic #shopping #Paris #Milan #Boutique #LESPIONNE #RoseMarketVintage #ilCameo #LaCerisesurleChapeau #YOUTV #YouGunLee #李佑群老師 #佑群老師 #李佑群

利迷之間瘋傳嘅超長文，感謝呢位師兄譯得咁傳神！睇到好激動！睇完更加覺得利迷可以有高普帶領球隊係全世界最幸福嘅球迷。

記得因為古仔單嘢，有好多對球會批評嘅聲音同不利嘅傳聞，令到球會上下都好大壓力。報導入面有句咁講：「高普其中一樣天賦就係對人嘅信任」，作為球迷，我會學習高普，選擇相信，無論係邊一個崗位，大家都要團結一致，支持利物浦再創新高峰。

https://www.facebook.com/groups/OLSCHKSAR/permalink/10156466140299828/

最近有篇超長文講高普，唔想睇英文又唔想Google Translate?冇問題，今次有母語翻譯！每句英粵對照，唔想睇英文嘅就Skip嚟睇啦

警告：內含粗口，對粗口過敏者請按"上一頁"

[母語翻譯]
From Hong Kong to Kiev:
At the end of the storm,
there's a golden sky...
由香港到基輔：
暴雨過後 總有晴天

The inside story of how Jurgen Klopp
weathered the worst to lead Liverpool
into the Champions League final
究竟高普點樣帶住利物浦捱過風浪殺入歐聯決賽

By Melissa Reddy

"And now, we will go to Kiev. It sounds crazy, but it's true."
“我哋嚟緊就去基輔。聽起嚟痴撚線，但係真㗎。“

The downpours, pelting over Kowloon as though they were bullets from above, had finally subsided. For Liverpool, however, this was the inception of the storm.
嚟香港踢波先落狗屎，唔同連個天都唔鍾意我。但原來對利物浦嚟講，果日只係惡夢嘅開始。

Before the sun could fully crack through the scattered clouds that Friday morning in Hong Kong last July 21st, Jurgen Klopp’s phone screen was crowded with notifications from sporting director, Michael Edwards, and Fenway Sports Group president, Mike Gordon.
舊年7月21號，打鑼咁早，身在香港嘅高普部電話已經畀體育總監Michael Edwards同FSG總裁Mike Gordon嘅message震爆咗。

The news being broken to the manager - the club had instantly rejected a £72 million bid from Barcelona for Philippe Coutinho - was yesterday’s back-page buffet in the United Kingdom courtesy of the seven-hour time difference.
喺高普同隊波仲瞓緊覺果時，球會已經拒絕咗巴塞羅拿對古天奴7200萬鎊嘅開價。

Klopp’s designs for the pre-season tour had already been scaled back due to monsoon conditions that prompted cancelled training sessions and improvised workouts.
高普嘅季前熱身計劃本身已經畀香港嘅天氣打亂咗，原有嘅訓練只可以改為體能訓練。

It was this development, though, which had the potential to cyclone through their preparations for 2017-18.
但呢鑊就真係堅，隨時將成季嘅部署打亂晒。

Liverpool could not have been more unambiguous in their response to the offer: there would be no summer sale, regardless of how much the fee shot up.
利物浦嘅官方回應好堅定：無論幾多錢，今個夏天都唔會賣。

Undisguised, too, was the fact La Liga’s giants would return armed with a traditional media offensive that would pack more of a punch than their improved proposals.
而另一方面，更加肯定嘅係，呢支西甲班霸唔會就咁放棄，佢哋媒體喉舌嘅攻勢比起佢哋嘅叫價更加凌厲。

The only variable surrounded the focal point. What was Coutinho, who had signed a new five-year deal without a release clause that January, thinking?
唯一唔肯定嘅係，究竟啱啱喺1月簽咗5年約嘅古天奴點諗呢？

As Klopp entered the private assembly room for breakfast at the palatial Ritz-Carlton, the answer immediately presented itself. The 25-year-old, inner turmoil tinting his facial features, was on edge with “an instant difference in his body language,” according to observers.
當高普行入香港Ritz-Carlton酒店準備畀球隊食早餐果間房嘅時候，即刻明晒。古天奴嘅面部表情同身體語言都話畀大家知，佢心入面十五十六。

So this was a problem. Klopp walked over to Coutinho to schedule a talk for that evening, when they had an honest and respectful exchange.
呢個係一個問題。高普同古天奴講，約定傍晚攤牌講清楚。

Liverpool could not simply delete their plans for the season on account of Barcelona being unprepared for the loss of Neymar to Paris Saint-Germain, the Reds boss explained.
高普話，巴塞羅拿戇鳩鳩畀尼馬走咗去巴黎聖日耳門，唔代表利物浦就要跟住一齊柒㗎嘛。

It was a point he circled back to, while also emphasising that the timing was wrong, as was the message it would send about the club.
高普不停重複呢一點，佢仲提到， 呢刻賣人時機錯晒，而且外界會點樣睇利物浦呢？

Coutinho understood that, but highlighted the sacrifices his wife, Aine, and parents had made for his career. The future revolved around them as much as it did his own ambitions.
古天奴好明白，但佢提到佢老婆Aine同埋佢父母已經為佢嘅職業犧牲好多。諗將來嘅時候佢除咗考慮自己嘅目標，亦都要考慮屋企人。

He was happy at Liverpool, he loved the club, he was full of gratitude… But this was Barcelona. And beyond that, it represented a lifestyle change for his family, who could function within a culture so much closer to their own.
佢喺利物浦好開心。佢好鍾意隊波，亦都心存感激。但係，果隊係巴塞喎。除此之外，轉會仲代表生活上重大嘅轉變，搬去果邊嘅文化會更加適合佢屋企。

Klopp acknowledged Coutinho’s thought process, but repeated that it was about Liverpool and this was not the right thing for the club, for his teammates, or for their season ambitions.
高普好明白古天奴嘅思路，但佢再次強調，呢個係利物浦嘅問題，呢個對隊波唔係好事，對班波同對佢哋今季嘅大計都唔係好事。

The message was reinforced privately by Edwards and the ownership before a public declaration.
喺發出官方聲明之前，Edwards同老闆都分別私底下向古天奴重申呢幾點。

/“We wish to offer clarity as regards our position on a possible transfer of Philippe Coutinho,” read a statement on the club’s official website on August 11 2017, which highlighted their “definitive stance is that no offers for Philippe will be considered and he will remain a member of Liverpool FC when the summer window closes.”

“我們特此重申有關古天奴轉會一事之立場” 球會於2017年8月11日發出官方聲明“任何對古天奴的開價均不會被考慮，他於夏季轉會窗關閉時將繼續是利物浦的一員”/

Through the clinking glasses and guffaws, there is thick blend of relief and defiance daubing the atmosphere in the Freshfield area of Formby.
利物浦附近嘅一個小鎮 Formby 充斥住杯碟聲同埋歡笑聲。

It is Saturday, January 6 2018, where a long-scheduled New Year’s celebration for Liverpool’s staff at the Klopp residence has coincided with the £142m sale of Coutinho to Barcelona.
今年1月6號星期六，成班利物浦嘅職球員喺高普屋企開緊Party。無獨有偶，球會啱啱公佈古天奴將會以1億4200萬鎊身價加盟巴塞。

The news had been released shortly before the flow of Monkey 47 gin and a catalogue of German lager at the gathering, with the message following the announcement on the club’s official website entirely scripted by the manager.
呢個消息都係喺佢地呢個不醉無歸嘅聚會之前無耐公佈，而呢篇球會嘅官方聲明其實係出自高普手筆。

/“Players will come and players will go, that is football, but as a club we are big enough and strong enough to continue with our aggressive progression on the pitch, even when we lose an important player. We have never been in a better position in recent times, as a club, to react in the right way. We will use our size and strength to absorb moments like this and still move forward.”
“有出先有入，足球係咁㗎啦。但我哋作為一間球會，即使無咗一個重要嘅球員，都應該夠堅強喺球場上繼續拼搏。我哋而家處於近年嚟最好嘅時間去應對呢個轉變，我哋應該夠強大去適應然後繼續向前。”/

That night, as the spine of the football staff and their partners made his home their own, Klopp may as well have had the words inked on his appearance.
果晚，當球員帶埋佢地嘅另一半去到高普屋企嘅時候，大家都睇得出高普嘅心情寫晒喺塊面度。

The party, defined as “symbolic” and “powerful” had an element of toasting to Coutinho’s contribution at Liverpool, but at the same time, there was a sense of middle fingers flying in the direction of the doom decorating his departure.
有人事後形容果晚嘅派對好有象徵意義同力量。個Party其實亦都係為咗感謝古天奴對球隊嘅貢獻，但同時似乎大家都對佢嘅離開暗地裡媽聲四起。

Whatever followed, those present felt they were in this together. They believed in each other, in the roster, that the addition of Virgil van Dijk would make Liverpool stronger, that there was more than enough snarl as a collective to continue on an upward trajectory.
無論如何，出席嘅球員都感覺到大家喺同一條船。佢哋相信大家，而且相信雲迪克加盟之後隊波會更加強大，越踢越好。

That Klopp, above all, subscribed so religiously to this thinking translated into others sharing his conviction.
而高普就不斷將呢個信念向成班波洗腦。

Liverpool would not just be fine, Liverpool would be fucking flying.
利物浦唔只會掂，仲要係好撚掂。

Klopp was a portrait of confidence and composure, but the previous five months had been stressful for the former Borussia Dortmund trainer.
高普一直係自信同冷靜嘅化身。但過去5個月，呢位前多蒙特嘅領隊承受住好大壓力。

It went against his entire nature, heavily built around empathy, to see a player so sewn in distress. He treasured Coutinho professionally as well as personally and agonised over what the saga was doing to the Brazil international.
呢個同佢嘅天性相反。佢對古天奴受嘅巨大壓力充滿住同情，而且佢喺個人同足球層面都好欣賞古天奴，對於佢喺呢場轉會風波入面所受嘅折磨亦感同身受。

Klopp imagined what it was like for him at home. He was torn by the impact it was potentially having on his wife and young daughter.
高普曾經想像如果係佢自己，佢老婆同咁細個嘅女所受嘅影響，佢感到更加痛苦。

The manager knew how he'd feel if one of his own kids were going through that situation, or if his partner was being affected by it.
佢好明白如果係佢嘅仔女面對咁嘅情況，或者係佢老婆受到嘅影響會係幾咁大。

Part of Klopp’s weaponry is sagacity, drilling deep to appreciate what drives those that line up under him or work alongside him.
高普其中一個強項就係佢嘅睿智。佢識得深入了解幫佢做嘢嘅人，佢哋嘅動力來源係乜嘢。

That he knew Coutinho, who is quite sensitive and counts his family as his axis, was cheerless made him so too.
而佢知道，古天奴係一個多愁善感嘅人。佢嘅屋企人就係佢嘅世界，而呢點亦係點解佢咁唔開心。

The 50-year-old is often cast as the centrepiece, revelling in attention. He is charismatic, and so is more than comfortable getting on the dance floor or grabbing the mic to create a rhapsodic environment.
呢位50歲嘅教頭經常都成為大家嘅焦點。佢好有魅力，而且好擅長製造開心熱鬧嘅環境氣氛。

But those who know him best insist Klopp is happiest sitting off and shining the spotlight on the ones he cares about having a good time.
但熟悉佢嘅人會知道，其實佢最鍾意嘅係坐埋一邊，睇住佢珍重嘅人做返主角接受群眾嘅目光。

He loves witnessing the initiation tradition of a player singing a song in front of all his teammates.
佢好鍾意一個傳統，就係叫一個球員喺隊友面前唱歌。

He adores the environment the squad have carved between themselves and the way they have married the serious (a strict fine system) with the humorous - Dejan Lovren’s ‘gaffer’ social media undressing stands out after he revealed his Champions League half-time rallying call at Manchester City.
佢好喜歡球隊嘅氣氛，可以將嚴肅(嚴格嘅罰款制度)同幽默結合，例如路夫蘭就喺社交媒體同球迷分享佢喺對曼城果場波半場休息嘅時候做更衣室大佬嘅事。

Klopp can also spend hours on YouTube watching videos of joyous supporters and has noted multiple times this season that watching the crowd develop and truly connect with the team has been special.
高普亦都好鍾意上YouTube睇球迷嘅片。佢多次提到睇住球迷真正同球隊連結埋一齊嘅感覺好特別。

So to view the opposite - to see sadness plague Coutinho - was piercing.
相反，睇住古天奴所受嘅折磨，亦令高普無比痛苦。

As such, if the decision was solely Klopp’s to make, the No.10’s switch to Spain would have been sanctioned before the start of 2017-18.
正因為咁，如果畀高普話晒事，佢開季前就會將古天奴賣去西班牙。

Never thinking he is always right, and knowing what he personally felt was trivial when juxtaposed with the full picture, the German supported the reasoning of Edwards, Gordon and the ownership in general.
高普唔係一個覺得自覺永遠啱嘅人。佢知道自己嘅感覺都係好表面嘅，當佢將成個大局擺喺眼前，佢都同意Edwards，Gordon同老闆嘅諗法。

It did not make sense then, that when the only route available for Coutinho to secure an exit was to go antagonist, his camp targeted the manager in their press onslaught, which only hardened FSG’s stance.
離奇嘅係，當時古天奴一方要離隊嘅唯一可能性就只能夠擺爛個款，而佢哋嘅陣營竟然以高普作為攻擊對象，咁樣結果只係加強咗FSG唔賣嘅決心。

Klopp hid it well, but the falsehoods over his relationship with Liverpool’s “genius,” plus the player’s manufactured unhappiness at the club did hurt - especially as he continued to publicly fight his corner.
雖然高普無表現出嚟，但果啲關於佢同古天奴關係惡劣嘅流言同埋古天奴為球隊帶嚟嘅唔開心，的確係傷害咗高普，特別係高普仲要出嚟喺公眾面前辯護。

Coutinho’s performances post the saga, especially on the continent, may have been seen as a fait accompli, but to get him to feature in the Champions League at all was an achievement.
古天奴喺呢次事件後嘅表現，尤其喺歐聯賽場，有目共睹。但派佢喺歐聯出場呢件事本身就已經唔簡單。

When it became apparent there was absolutely no twisting of Liverpool’s arm, the threat of not representing the club in Europe was still strongly being advocated by his advisors.
當知道利物浦嘅立場非常堅定之後，古天奴嘅軍師就極力主張古天奴拒絕喺歐聯上陣。

Gordon and Edwards toiled to surgically remove that and Klopp began reintegrating Coutinho, a process made simpler by his protection of the wantaway star.
Gordon同Edwards好辛苦咁解決咗呢個問題，高普亦重新將古天奴擺返入球隊嘅戰術體制入面，而高普千方百計咁喺公眾面前保護古天奴亦都令呢件事更加容易。

Despite the heckling and suspicious inverted commas each time the ‘back injury’ that sidelined the midfielder in August was mentioned, Klopp never deviated from his line - even when the issue was “only emotional” according to Brazil’s doctor during an international break.
雖然8月嘅時候，古天奴因“背傷”的確惹嚟唔少懷疑，即使巴西軍醫都話佢嘅背傷只係情緒問題，但高普始終如一支持球員。

Squad harmony and ensuring there were no further hiccups to the start of the season was paramount for Klopp - he did not mind being the subject of ridicule, which drew mass respect from the dressing room.
球隊嘅和諧對高普嚟講最為重要。佢唔介意成為事情嘅主角，咁就可以令傳媒嘅焦點離開更衣室。

10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1…
Happy New Year!
新年快樂！

2018 had only just ticked in, but it entered with the same complexity and concern Liverpool had enjoyed a temporary break from.
2018年啱啱開始，同時標誌住呢個困擾住利物浦嘅問題喺短暫嘅休息之後又再出現。

Barcelona were not so much knocking on the door as they were smashing through it. Coutinho’s desire to leave had not diminished despite his excellence behind a supreme frontline and the club preparing for their first Champions League knockout fixture since 2009.
巴塞羅拿今次唔只係敲門，可以講係撞門。雖然古天奴上半季留喺利物浦表現出色，而球隊亦自2009年以嚟第一次打入歐聯淘汰賽，但佢離隊嘅慾望並無消失。

Liverpool did not want a repeat of the upheaval of the summer, but conversely, neither did they want to cede the Brazilian during such a positive juncture.
利物浦唔想重演上個夏天嘅劇情，但另一方面亦唔想喺呢個重要關頭失去古天奴。

Against the tide, they attempted to persuade him to stay until the end of the season on very lucrative terms - a deal now effective later. However, there was no budging from Barca’s end nor his: Coutinho had been on Merseyside for five years and he was adamant: it was time to say goodbye.
利物浦嘗試挽留古天奴，以先簽約後離隊嘅方式留到季尾。但無論巴塞定係古天奴都寸步不讓：佢已經喺度踢咗5年，佢非常堅決係時候離隊。

As the days ticked on and the eventuality of a sale became more pronounced, Gordon was hugely concerned that the uplifting tone around the club would morph into one of unrest. He was insistent that any abuse should be funnelled towards him and the ownership, shielding Klopp and the squad from toxicity.
當轉會勢在必行，Gordon非常擔心咁樣會為一切都穩步上揚嘅球隊帶嚟負面影響。佢堅持所有外界嘅責難都應該由佢同董事會承擔，高普同球員唔應該受到牽連。

Through this period, though, there was no calmer person at Melwood than the manager and there was no way he wouldn’t front up.
喺呢段期間，成個Melwood無人比高普更加冷靜，亦都無人可以阻止佢對住傳媒頂硬上。

Klopp demanded that everyone relax, that this was just a football transfer, and so they should treat it as such and nothing more.
高普要求所有球員保持放鬆，呢單只係普通嘅足球轉會，大家唔需要諗太多，

If Liverpool did not want any drama around it, then it was imperative that they did not create a spectacle themselves.
如果利物浦唔想事情繼續發酵，佢哋首先就要唔好自己製造新嘅話題。

It was a transaction, not a tombstone for the Reds’ season.
呢單只係一單普通嘅交易，隊波嘅球季仲未完嘅。

The most significant factor was how the squad would react to the development. The Magician was loved by his peers, but additionally, there had been an episode that played on Klopp’s mind.
最重要嘅係隊波點樣面對呢個轉變。隊友都好鍾意古天奴，而有件事喺高普心入面揮之不去。

One August afternoon, a desperate Coutinho approached the senior players’ committee and pencilled in a talk in one of the meeting rooms on Melwood’s ground tier.
早喺8月嘅時候，有一日古天奴喺Melwood一間會議室入面同球隊嘅“一隊球員委員會”開會。

He appealed to them to change the club’s mind, and while he knew the squad wanted him to stay, he also figured fellow professionals would recognise why he felt this was a ‘dream step’ that was critical to take.
佢希望球會可以改變決定。佢知道球隊希望佢留低，但佢亦深信隊友會明白佢為夢想而行嘅呢一步。

For all the chicanery that occurred during the summer window, it was the folding of his teammates into the fuss that most annoyed Klopp.
而最令高普擔憂嘅係其他隊友焦急嘅心情。

So when the deal was done and Coutinho was off, the manager rounded up the full group in the dressing room at the training complex and delivered an incisive address.
當轉會已成定局，高普召集所有球員，喺訓練場嘅更衣室向佢哋訓話。

The message was that they'd lost a great player and a friend, but it was no more than that. He told them to not give anyone on the outside a chance to say that Phil going has affected their season.
高普最主要嘅訊息係，佢哋係喪失咗一個好球員，但亦只係少咗一個好球員咁大把。最重要嘅係唔好畀外面嘅人有任何機會話古天奴嘅離開影響咗我哋嘅球季。

Klopp mentioned that the scrutiny would increase, but he didn't believe it would hamper Liverpool in a negative way. It was important for the team to believe the same, because if they allowed his exit to be an excuse, Liverpool were weak.
高普話佢相信出面嘅批評會越嚟越多，但佢唔覺得球隊會受到任何負面影響。隊波一定要有呢個信念，呢樣係好重要，否則如果球隊畀呢樣嘢成為藉口，咁利物浦就太軟弱。

He reminded his players they could decide whether people said their collective genius had walked out the door with Coutinho.
高普提醒球員，佢哋有能力話畀全世界知道，佢哋加埋嘅力量係咪都畀古天奴一個拎走晒。

/"This is us. On we go."
丟那媽 頂硬上/

Liverpool had anticipated a thunderstorm, and when the whistle for the interval went at the Etihad, they were relieved for the respite from Manchester City’s electric onslaught.
利物浦預咗場波會好難踢，而當半場嘅哨子聲響起嘅時候，佢哋即刻鬆一口氣，可以暫時忘記曼城喺主場瘋狂嘅攻勢。

The scoreline was only 1-0 to Pep Guardiola’s men on the night, and still 3-1 to the visitors on aggregate in the Champions League quarter-finals, but those first 45 minutes were punishing.
比數只係1-0，對於作客嘅利物浦嚟講兩回合計仲係領先緊3-1。但呢45分鐘嘅歐聯八強可以話係一種折磨。

Klopp’s half-time routine is consistent home and away. He speeds from the touchline to the dressing room, takes off his jacket and convenes with assistant coach Peter Krawietz, who has selected crucial in-match clips along with analysts Harrison Kingston and Mark Leyland.
高普每次嘅半場休息都係一樣，主場同作客都係。佢會由球場跑入更衣室，除咗件外套，集合埋已經剪好咗上半場精華嘅助教Peter Krawietz，同埋兩位分析員，Harrison Kingston 同 Mark Leyland。

The footage they slice is never usually of a goal being conceded or scored, but examples of how to avoid the former or ensure the latter by highlighting the positioning of the defensive line or where the best offensive spaces are.
佢哋揀嘅片通常都唔係重溫失波或者入波，而係講解防線嘅企位點樣防止失波，同埋點樣利用進攻嘅空位爭取入波。

At City, there was a deviation. Lovren had been shouting, telling the team to ‘wake up,’ that they weren’t showing enough belief and were allowing Kevin De Bruyne and co to do as they please.
而今次嚟到曼城，情況有啲唔同。路夫蘭大聲喝醒班隊友，話佢哋信心唔夠同埋畀迪布尼太多空位。

Klopp pounced on this as the perfect opening for his own message and so he broke away from his normal process, allowing the centre-back to speak for just under a minute before then commanding the room.
高普覺得呢個會係一個好好嘅開場白，所以佢畀咗大概1分鐘路夫蘭講佢要講嘅嘢。

He started by agreeing with the Croatian, before pointing at Lovren and Van Dijk, saying they were killing the team by being too deep.
之後輪到高普，佢首先同意路夫蘭嘅講法，然後就話路夫蘭同雲迪克逗得太深，令場波好難踢。

He then calmly got his crucial information over: get higher, condense the pitch and stop City playing the passes that feed their strengths.
然後佢好冷靜咁指示球員：逗前啲，企密啲，唔好畀曼城咁多空位做波。

In possession, relax, orientate yourselves better and speed it up. He pointed out spaces available to break City’s press, helping Liverpool retain the ball and thwart the hosts’ constant flow of attacks.
控球果時保持冷靜，轉身然後加速。善用進攻空位突破曼城嘅迫搶，亦都可以減慢曼城嘅進攻。

Klopp then highlighted Alex Oxlade-Chamberlain’s chance at the end of the first half as the memory that would be playing on loop in the home dressing room.
佢特別提到張伯倫臨完半場前嘅一次機會。

He stressed that City had just seen what Liverpool were capable of and it would be terrifying them as all it would've taken was one successful attack to scorch Guardiola's charges.
佢話呢球畀曼城睇到利物浦嘅實力，而佢哋先應該係驚果一隊，因為我哋一次成功嘅進攻佢哋就玩完。

There was an element of 'so what the fuck are we doing still sitting here?' as he ordered them to go out and get back on the front foot.
“咁仲坐喺度做乜鳩吖”高普就趕咗隊波出球場準備。

While City were engulfed by the emotion of the occasion with Guardiola getting sent off at half-time, Liverpool used the break to reorganise.
當曼城仍然因為哥迪奧拿半場被趕離場而激動，利物浦就借呢個時候重整旗鼓。

Klopp’s ability to cut through everything and communicate concisely was visible through the first passage of play in which his side strung five to six consecutive passes together.
高普講解戰術嘅能力可以由利物浦下半場第一個攻勢連續五六下靚傳就睇到。

It culminated in Mohamed Salah’s opener on 56 minutes that effectively ended the tie, after Gini Wijnaldum fed Oxlade-Chamberlain.
利物浦好快就得到回報。56分鐘，韋拿度姆傳畀張伯倫，最後由沙拿射入，賽事就基本上大局已定。

The England international dissected City to supply the Egyptian, who along with Sadio Mane had worked to isolate and unsettle Aymeric Laporte, Fernandinho and Nicolas Otamendi as per instruction.
張伯倫劏穿咗曼城嘅防線，畀沙拿配合文尼，根據高普嘅指示搞掂咗拿撲迪，費蘭甸奴同奧達文迪。

Klopp is forever examined through his magnetism, but not his methods. People see the cool as fuck figure with his unkept stubble in a hoody and trainers, but not the tactical nerd obsessed with preparation and details.
高普最吸引人嘅係佢嘅魅力而唔係佢嘅教波或者戰術。大家睇到嘅高普都係著住運動衫同埋有一頭混亂嘅短髮，同果啲執著於準備戰術部署嘅大師風格完全唔同。

The storyline is dictated by the hugs, fist pumps and rantings, but should be about the composed leader, who is able to read the room and never ducks a big call.
完場嘅一刻充滿住擁抱，碰拳同埋咆哮。但係唔能夠遺忘嘅係呢位永不退縮嘅領袖。

Liverpool need only a point to secure Champions League football heading into the final top-flight game of the season against Brighton? Ok then, he'll just pick four attackers.
利物浦只需要喺白禮頓身上拎到1分就足夠確保下季歐聯參賽資格？無問題，出四個前鋒囉。

There is a misconception too that Klopp’s management is punctuated by Hollywood moments, that ‘Any Given Sunday’ type zingers are delivered on a daily.
大家都有個誤會，就係喺高普嘅領導之下，呢啲本應喺荷李活先出現嘅誇張劇情好似每日都會上演。

To this point, Andy Robertson and Oxlade-Chamberlain are often asked “what did Klopp say to you when things weren’t going well at the start of your Liverpool career?”
就住呢點，羅拔臣同張伯倫都曾經分別被問到“高普喺你哋啱啱加盟，表現唔係咁好嘅時候，同你哋講過啲咩？”

There is no cinematographic answer as there were no elaborate meetings or ground-shifting discussions.
無任何驚喜嘅答案，因為根本就無任何特別嘅對話或者照肺。

He told them to continue as they were, put in the work, and the time would come, things would align.
高普只係叫佢哋繼續努力，時機會嚟到，所有嘢就會好順利。

Klopp believes there is no point ballooning something beyond what it actually is, and that often, the best decision to take is none at all.
高普覺得，有時一動不如一靜。

He figures having ‘the talk’ can be self-indulgent and self-serving at times. If there is no certain benefit to a player, what exactly is the point?
佢覺得有時呢啲所謂對話，即係照肺，根本幫唔到球員，晒氣。

And if there is no massive issue, with the criticism existing externally, why should Klopp feed the notion that there is a problem by formally addressing it?
如果根本就無乜問題，只係外界係度亂咁批評，咁何必太認真看待？

Take Mane for example, who was slightly off colour for a period, snatching a little too much and overthinking every action.
以文尼為例，佢有段時間的確係失色咗啲，獨食咗啲，有啲決定慢咗啲。

In general, though, the speedster was still a threat, still being decisive and still ensuring that the front three functioned exceptionally while adding to his defensive duties.
但整體嚟講，佢仍然係前場一個威脅，仍然係決定性嘅，加上佢喺防守嘅貢獻，確保三把尖刀可以各自發揮作用。

There was never a big sit down with the Senegal international, simply a brief sort of ‘What’s up? Stop beating yourself up about any mistakes, I am very happy with you.’
高普從來都無坐低同文尼傾過啲咩問題，最多都只係“喂，唔使咁躁，你踢得好吖我好滿意。”

Mane found his own way through his stifled spell, aided by a sprinkling of encouragement rather than a lengthy tactical dissection.
文尼最後都走出低潮，靠嘅只係少少嘅鼓勵，而唔需要長篇大論嘅戰術分析。

Klopp doesn’t hesitate to assume control when a situation demands it - see Mamadou Sakho as a reference - but he dictates when necessary, not out of ego nor as an act.
當然，如果有需要，高普會毫不猶豫手起刀落介入問題，沙高就係一個例子。但佢只會喺客觀情況有必要嘅時候先會咁，而絕對唔係自我中心。

October 8, 2015
2015年10月8號

At Hope Street Hotel in Liverpool’s city centre, those who would now work closely with the club’s new manager were offered insight into the character behind the established caricature.
喺利物浦市中心嘅希望街設計酒店(Hope Street Hotel)，一班而家同高普緊密合作嘅伙記當時就第一次見識到呢位領隊。

After Klopp signed a three-year deal worth an estimated £7m per season in the Sixth Boardroom, where Rafa Benitez had also ratified a contract with the club in 2004, he gathered the football staff for dinner.
高普同球會簽咗3年，每年值7百萬鎊嘅合約。佢簽約嘅地方同2004年賓尼迪斯同利物浦簽約嘅地方一樣。簽約之後，高普就約咗成班職員食晚飯。

Some expected a rousing speech from the German, others assumed it would be the introduction to Jurgen’s Law.
大家都預期高普會發表激勵嘅演說，或者先小人後君子講下自己帶波嘅規矩。

Instead, Klopp spoke very little, inviting everyone to tell him about themselves, their roles and how things worked at Liverpool - from training schedules to the matchday routine. He wanted to absorb as much information as possible.
但結果，高普無乜點講嘢。佢邀請所有人分別介紹自己，佢啲嘅崗位同職責，由訓練日程到比賽日嘅運作，佢都想知道多啲。

When it was time to talk through the media plan for his unveiling, Klopp was asked about his preferences when dealing with press. “No, no,” he responded, underlining that this was the communication team's field and they were the experts.
當講到應對媒體方面，高普話呢個係公關團隊嘅範疇同專業。

They had to tell him how it should be. They had to teach him.
佢會等佢哋指導佢點做。

One of the Stuttgart native’s gifts is trusting and turning to the people he works with, previously stating “I’m not a one-man show. I was never that in my life, and I never want to be that. The best lesson you can get in a day - to speak to smart people about things they know about much more about than you do.”
高普其中一樣天賦就係對人嘅信任。“我唔係單打獨鬥嘅人，我從來都唔係。每日最好嘅事就係同聰明嘅人傾計，聽佢哋講一啲佢哋比你叻好多嘅嘢。”

It is why when recruitment continuously pushed Salah to the forefront of the agenda for Liverpool’s incomings, Klopp co-signed their expertise.
咁就解釋咗點解當球探極力推薦沙拿嘅時候，高普毫不猶豫就投下信任一票。

He is across everything, but respects staff who take responsibility for their spheres of influence and are bold enough to settle on important decisions without informing him of each small detail.
高普好尊重所有同事喺佢哋自己嘅範疇工作，而且可以勇敢啲做決定，唔使事無大小都問准佢。

Klopp surrounds himself with strong personalities, and as such, perhaps that partly explains why his long-time assistant and friend, Zeljko Buvac, is expected to leave the club at the end of the season.
高普身邊有好多叻人一齊做嘢。或者正因為咁，佢嘅長期拍檔，Zeljko Buvac 預計將會係季尾離隊。

The Bosnian-Serb has been missing from the first-team fold since the end of April due to ‘personal reasons,’ and while no clarity has been offered on the situation, there is thought to be an element of discontent for Buvac over his standing in football.
呢位助教自從4月尾就因為私人理由缺席一隊嘅活動。外界盛傳其中一個原因係佢唔滿意自己喺對足球方面嘅意見唔夠被重視，而呢個傳聞亦一直無被正式澄清。

That his absence has not affected Liverpool behind the scenes is a nod to the strength of the individuals in the backroom team.
佢嘅缺席對利物浦影響似乎唔大正好證明球隊背後支援嘅團隊實力洪厚。

It is a strand that runs through the playing personnel as well, with proof in the non-upheaval following Coutinho’s winter departure.
呢點同球員喺古天奴離隊後嘅穩定表現有異曲同工之妙。

Just as the footballers have happily assumed more responsibility, so too have the coaching and support staff.
正如其他球員樂於承擔更多責任，職員亦都一樣。

“Incredibly healthy” has been a label used to describe the overall set-up at Melwood and when you consider the seamless adjustment of Van Dijk and Salah, it seems an accurate assessment.
有人形容Melwood 嘅分工安排係“非常健康”。當你睇到雲迪克同沙拿都可以咁快適應球隊，呢個講法似乎千真萬確。

Meanwhile, players that took a while to find their stride, like Robertson and Oxlade-Chamberlain, never felt walled off.
同時，一啲需要多啲時間適應嘅球員，例如羅拔臣同張伯倫，都無感到被遺忘。

Klopp empowered Henderson to cultivate the dressing room culture and the captain has promoted a togetherness many within the West Derby facility say they haven’t encountered before.
高普吩咐軒達臣負責更衣室裡面嘅氣氛同文化，而大家都認同呢位隊長為球隊帶嚟前所未有嘅團結。

The bond extends beyond the team to the non-football staff, who are part of the fabric of the place too. This is so much so, that even when players leave the fondness lingers.
呢股團結力量亦擴展至其他職員，甚至乎有啲球員離隊後仍然維持住對球隊嘅感情。

When Liverpool travelled to Rome for the second leg of their Champions League semi-final, Lucas Leiva sent back a surprise for popular canteen pairing Carol Farrell and Caroline Guest - signed Lazio shirts with a personal message for both.
當利物浦作客羅馬嘅時候，盧卡斯利華就準備咗拉素簽名波衫作為驚喜禮物送畀一對飯堂孖寶，Carol Farrel 同 Caroline Guest。

Meanwhile, it is in their domain - the dinning room - where Klopp and Edwards often strategise over breakfast or lunch beyond the more in-depth presentations on players. The duo, who both employ an open-door policy, enjoy an effortless relationship underpinned by mutual respect.
高普同Edwards經常都去到飯堂踩場，趁住食早餐或者午餐嘅時間，向球員做戰術指導。呢對飯堂孖寶都表示門常開，非常之歡迎大家。

And while the sporting director keeps a low profile as he prefers to do his job rather than talk about it, allowing him to make moves under the radar at times, Klopp appreciates that he is distinguished in his field and very decisive.
我哋嘅體育總監比較鍾意低調，不受注目，而高普就非常欣賞佢，喺佢嘅範疇十分之出色，亦好果斷。

The Reds boss is never shy to talk up the brilliance of the recruitment group, who are backed by a stellar research team run by Ian Graham.
高普亦毫不吝惜對由Ian Graham帶領嘅球探團隊嘅讚美。

And while Edwards is not the type to seek credit, Liverpool’s forward line - the most devastating in Europe this season - is largely his sketch.
雖然Edwards並唔鍾意領功，但其實利物浦而家嘅前場三叉戟，好大程度係佢嘅功勞。

Gordon assesses the dovetailing between the pair as a core canon for the club’s success. Klopp appreciates Edwards’ intelligence in assembling a team to effectively implement his aggressive blueprint, while the transfer chief is aware that signing a top player is purposeless without a top manager to extract every inch of their talent.
Gordon覺得兩人之間嘅合作係球會成功嘅重要武器。高普欣賞Edwards可以砌到隊波啱佢用，而呢位轉會話事人亦明白，幾好嘅球員都需要一個優秀嘅領隊先可以發揮所長。

The way the Reds have vaporised teams on the continent this season with their attacking venom has seen a spike in agents calling up to ascertain if there’d be any interest in their exciting clients.
利物浦今季令人聞風喪膽嘅表現令唔少經理人都蠢蠢欲動，想睇下利物浦對佢哋嘅球員有無興趣。

Liverpool are now the running train.
利物浦而家可以話係如日方中。

/'I could see myself here for the rest of my career'
我覺得自己淨低嘅職業生涯都會喺呢度。/

FSG were convinced, but how could they not have been? For nearly five years, he was the one: the ownership’s ideal manager, who remained just out of reach.
FSG都好有信心。等咗將近5年，佢就係管理層心儀嘅領隊人選。

In October 2015, however, he had finally become their one - Liverpool’s Jurgen Klopp.
2015年10月，高普終於成為利物浦領隊。

But it was only on a three-year deal. He had never lived outside of Germany, let alone managed in a different country, and while there were no doubts over his status as The Perfect Fit on the club’s end, Klopp was mindful of the adaptation both he and his family would have to undertake.
但當時佢只係簽咗一份3年嘅合約。佢從來未試過喺德國以外居住，更加唔好講帶一隊德國以外嘅球隊。雖然球會對高普充滿信心，但佢就難免顧慮佢同屋企人適應嘅問題。

The contract represented a realistic scenario rather than a romantic one. During a relaxed conversation in June 2016, however, he remarked that he could imagine being at Liverpool for the rest of his managerial career to Gordon.
合約終歸係現實嘅。之後喺2016年，佢提到自己可能可以將淨低嘅執教生涯都放係利物浦。

That put in motion an instant process to lock Klopp in after a quick discussion with principle owner John Henry and chairman Tom Werner.
球隊即刻事不宜遲，同老闆John Henry同主席Tom Werner簡單討論之後，就立即著手準備留住高普。

Within a matter of hours, fresh terms had been thrashed out with the manager’s agent, Marc Kosicke, and a new six-year deal was agreed.
話咁快，新合約就預備好，喺高普經理人Marc Kosicke嘅協助下，高普簽咗一份6年嘅合約。

Klopp had been on holiday in Ibiza before ferrying over to Formentera, the smallest of Spain’s Balearic islands in the Mediterranean Sea.
當時，高普正喺西班牙伊維薩島(Ibiza)放緊大假，佢之後再飛到地中海嘅福門特拉島(Formentera)繼續行程。

And on June 16, as he celebrated his 49th birthday, he also toasted signing on until 2022, with the news only being announced at the start of pre-season the following month.
喺6月16號，當佢慶祝緊49歲生日嘅同時，佢亦正式簽約擔任利物浦領隊直至2022年，而呢個好消息一直等到臨開季先向外公佈。

/"When you have an individual of Jurgen's quality in the building it makes perfect sense to secure that person for the long term. To not do so would be irresponsible."
“當你有一個好似高普咁有能力嘅人帶領球隊，無理由唔同佢簽份長約，否則係對球隊不負責任”/

Long before Henry, Werner and Gordon had first met with Klopp on October 1 2015 at the New York law offices of Shearman & Sterling, they had done extensive homework on his credentials.
遠喺Henry，Werner同Gordon第一次同高普喺2015年10月1號喺紐約一間律師樓見面之前，佢哋已經對高普做咗好多功課。

It was obvious that he was charming and a unifying figure, but they sharply realised there was endless substance beyond the soundbites and mad-scientist smile.
好明顯高普係一個有魅力而有凝聚力嘅人物，但佢哋好快就發現高普嘅功力唔只咁簡單。

Liverpool had craved a recognisable identity and here was a bonafide architect; a man worshipped in Mainz and Dortmund for his remarkable design work.
利物浦有令人景仰嘅歷史同身分，而高普正正就係一個優秀嘅建築師，佢喺緬因斯同多蒙特嘅出色表現已經係好好嘅證明。

They spoke for hours at the high-rise building on Lexington Avenue in Manhattan, chewing over everything from playing style to reawakening the fan base and reconvened the following day for further talks.
佢哋果日傾咗好耐。由球隊踢法到球迷覺醒，佢哋甚至好傾到要約定第二日繼續傾。

Klopp had made one particular point with regularity: Liverpool should be a force in Europe. And they could be. He would work to get them back amongst Europe’s elite, and moreover, as being the kind of team no-one wanted to face in the Champions League.
高普提出咗一點：利物浦應該，而且可以喺歐洲有一席位。佢會令球隊重返歐洲前列，而且會令利物浦成為喺歐聯無人想對碰嘅隊伍。

In a matter of months after arriving in Liverpool, he had guided the club to the Europa League final eliminating Manchester United, Dortmund and Villarreal en route before falling short against Sevilla at the showpiece in Basel.
嚟到利物浦未夠1年，高普就帶領球隊先後淘汰曼聯，多蒙特同維拉利爾，殺入歐霸盃決賽，可惜喺巴塞爾輸咗畀西維爾。

In his first full season at the helm, Klopp’s side secured a fourth-place finish and a crack at Champions League football for only the second time in eight seasons.
喺佢嘅第一季英超，佢就成功殺入前四，拎到來季歐聯參賽資格。呢個只係利物浦近8年嚟第2次。

And having navigated a tricky qualifier against Hoffenheim last August to enter the group phase of the tournament, Liverpool are in now in its final and will be at the continent’s top table again next season.
而今季，先喺外圍賽淘汰賀芬咸，再經過分組賽，利物浦而家已經嚟到歐聯決賽，而且已經穩奪下年嘅歐聯參賽資格。

Whatever happens against Real Madrid in Kiev, Liverpool’s advancement is unarguable.
無論喺基輔對皇家馬德里嘅決賽結果係點，利物浦嘅進步都係有目共睹。

Rewinding to Hong Kong, that they have made it here - one objective boxed off, one well surpassed - through the disruption, the injuries and the sale of Coutinho mid-season, is masterful.
回帶重溫由香港開始嘅球季，經歷風風雨雨，古天奴離隊同埋傷兵滿營，最終前四目標達到，歐聯之路令人驚喜。

Liverpool have the opportunity to be the ultimate conquerers of Europe this season having already dispatched Porto, Manchester City and Roma, smashing scoring records en route to the NSC Olimpiyskiy Stadium.
利物浦先後闖過波圖，曼城同羅馬，向住奧林匹克國家綜合體育場進發，有機會成為歐洲嘅盟主。

Most significantly though, there is a wealth of confidence within the club that this will not be a rarity, that spellbinding nights under Anfield’s lights will become a divine right again.
而最重要嘅係，球會上下充滿信心，今季嘅成績唔係偶然，以後仍然陸續有嚟。

They believe Liverpool will not just be fine, Liverpool will be fucking flying.
佢哋相信，利物浦唔單止會掂，仲會係好撚掂。

原文連結：

哈囉各位帥哥美女們，我沒有新開一篇拿坡里交通、景點文章。我把更新內容放在舊的文章裡喔！歡迎大家觀看完整版的內容✌️✌️✌️

非常感謝各位支持我的專頁，明年大約六月的時候還會辦一場中區分享會（北區、南區時間另行通知😅）這個月也照樣舉辦抽獎活動！破兩千讚數的話就獎品加碼送各種歐洲帶回來的高價小禮物😋😋

抽獎方式跟之前一樣，從拿坡里攻略按讚的人裡面挑出3-4位幸運兒🌷🌷🌷
寫攻略雖然辛苦但是有你們的支持讓我更有動力了💪💪💪

*我也會繼續幫忙大家追蹤機票資訊👍👍👍
*最近忙明年旅行的事更新比較慢抱歉😓😓😓
*愛你們喔💋💋💋

# 歡慶破1900讚，2100追蹤🎉
# 11.17補上景點、瞎拼、住宿推薦
# 令人又愛又恨的拿玻里美食特輯
# 拿坡里安全性？教你如何保護自己
# 好吃披薩、美味小吃報你知
# 拿坡里人早餐是炸披薩+酒😳
# 平價購物街、銀行旁小市集
# 下回預告：景點+交通
（我先發前半篇，後半景點還沒寫完抱歉😅）
Google maps好讀版：
https://ppt.cc/fSgudx

玩到拿坡里的時候大家都差不多累了😅😅😅

因為我這次只有在拿坡里半天，所以吃吃玩玩的地方不多，有些人因為治安上考量就跳過拿坡里，但是我覺得這地方迷人的披薩小吃、景色、博物館是無可取代的，而且錯過世界上最知名的拿坡里披薩不是很可惜嗎？

如果你要找地方放行李，不妨參考這個地方Stow Your Bags，一日五歐元的樣子

《吃貨照過來》：

「就是要吃披薩」🍕🍕🍕

1.Pizzeria 'Ntretella

老闆特選頂級食材，古法製作的超美味披薩，中午12點到半夜都可以用平民價格享用珍貴食材做成的美味披薩！不吃對不起自己👍👍👍

我看了一下他們家網頁的食材介紹，嚇到差點吃手手😲😲
「Frantoio Galioto DOP西西里頂級冷壓初榨橄欖油、拿坡里的傳統番茄醬、維蘇威火山區產的番茄、Trapani海岸產的海鹽,Monte Taburno山區小鎮產的奧勒岡葉、源自Monti Lattari山區的新鮮mozzarella起司、 帕瑪森乾酪則是產自西北義阿歐斯塔谷山區的特殊種牛隻（Valdostana Pezzata Rossa）、老闆特別推薦我們喝同為Monte Taburno山區小鎮產的得獎酒，果真非比尋常的美味，微甜無澀味帶微微香氣）
這間完全沒有中文遊記，純粹是google maps分數蠻高才想說來去試一下😎😎😎

我知道大家會以為我要寫那個名店老店之類的，但是你跟旅伴下午五點肚子餓的不要不要的，又想吃一家好吃便宜，燈光美氣氛佳的披薩？來這裡就對啦✌️

在一個不起眼的巷內，除了店門口的那桌客人以外就沒其他客人了，可能五點多不到飯點。裡面的有點洞穴風混搭工業風工作坊的裝飾也相當特別，不過最令人最印象深刻的是他們一個女服務生看起來跩跩的，點餐也拽拽的，披薩上桌之後還特地跑來問好不好吃🤣🤣🤣有夠酷的😎

這裡也有炸海鮮跟炸披薩，不過我們戰鬥力超弱的一下就飽到頭頂了（誤，下次徵旅伴要來徵個很能吃的（大大誤🤣

特別推薦：

1）Margherita al Pomodorino Fresco e Bufala
大部分客人都是衝著這盤來的，在義大利為了少踩點雷我都會點瑪格麗特披薩。不過我第一次吃到一片披薩上吃到這麼多頂級乾酪跟番茄，覺得人生圓滿（誤🤣比臉大2倍以上的美味披薩只要6歐元😲😲😲
寫完自己都好想吃可惡😖😖

2）得獎白酒（產自Monte Taburno山區小鎮）一杯2.5歐，我跟旅伴一人半杯🤣可是真的好喝建議點一壺🍸🍸

3）現做提拉米蘇也不錯吃，略甜，不過你吃完待會就吃不下其他拿坡里小吃了（4歐）

也有人推薦拿坡里傳統點心baba
*免餐桌費👍*開店時間長👍

2.Pizzeria Brandi

義大利版版友推薦店，同為知名披薩老店，也是很多名人到訪過的店。
據說創始人在120年前發明了瑪格麗特披薩，雖然價錢偏高一個要8歐左右。
不過我也有看到一些不好的評論，例如他們太在乎出餐的速度了，已經變成太觀光客的餐廳了，一堆人說吃起來像橡皮🤣

3.Antica Friggitoria La Masardona dal 1945

這個是國家地理頻道採訪店，這家60多年老店只有賣炸披薩。他們的二代老闆是有點帥的小鮮肉🤣🤣好吧根本不是重點。重點是當地人的早餐居然是他們家的炸披薩+瑪薩拉酒（西西里產的甜酒、提拉米蘇裡面就是加這種酒提香味）不過一早就喝酒，待會上班開車大丈夫😬😬😬

*吃炸披薩的正確方式不是直接咬，而是要把最上面的角角撕掉讓它散熱一下，如果怕熱可以再撕著吃或是用咬的都可以
*不同的炸披薩是用不同的起司，像其中一種是用菊苣、松子、葡萄乾加上幾顆橄欖、帕芙隆乳酪，然後把打鬆後的麵皮放入餡料邊緣壓緊放進高溫油鍋裡，就是拿坡里的美味炸披薩了

4.Di Matteo

70多年披薩老店，前美國總統克林頓也愛的美味披薩店👍義大利版也有很多人推薦，據說人很多最好11點就要去排隊。如果人太多可以選擇外帶比較快😎😎😎我看評論說有人在那邊等了快2個小時😳😳😳好險我沒有很餓的時候去吃這家🤣🤣🤣
有人說炸披薩比烤的披薩有名

價錢：瑪格麗特系列披薩3-5歐，除了披薩以外也可以嘗試很多人推的frittatina小烘蛋、 crocchèe arancini valgono炸米球（類似巴勒莫小吃）

5.Trianon

開在Pizzeria da Michele附近的披薩店，義大利版也有人推薦。雖然有蠻多擁護者，不過有幾個當地人寫的評論說他們用了很多新穎的食材讓它吃起來反而比較像羅馬披薩😅大部分人還是覺得da Michele比較好吃😅😅

6.Pizzeria da Michele

電影「一個人的旅行」茱莉亞羅勃茲到訪拿坡里時吃的披薩老店👍
只賣Margherita瑪格麗特披薩跟marinara水手披薩。關於水手披薩的傳說，據說是在1735年引進了這個地區。因為當時買這種披薩的大多是收入較低的船員(因為這種披薩出船還可以帶上去，可以放比較久）後來有一個廚師長之類的在瑪格麗特女王到訪了這個地區後，把裡面的原料去掉大蒜和加上Mozzarella起司，女王相當喜歡，所以就因此而命名了😅😅

有當地人說它的餅皮美味程度排名應該是冠軍，第二美味的是Di Matteo，等待時間起碼半小時，不過我也看到一些負評例如說等了兩個小時結果吃到又焦又苦的餅皮之類的。但是它的負評比其他店少很多，大部分人還是對它的口味相當推崇的👍

價錢：中、大、超大分別為4、4.5、5歐。最好選擇外帶，比較不用等到天荒地老

「螞蟻人專區」🍰🍰🍰

7.Shri Ganesha Di Bove Michele

這是義大利版友分享的好店，據說一個甜品蛋糕都0.5歐，而且不錯吃👍👍👍

8.Pasticceria Poppella

在拿坡里相當著名的電視採訪名店，最有名的是他們家的法式點心"il Fiocco di neve"中文名好想是「雪花」一種用奶油、牛奶、義大利乳清乾酪、蜂蜜做成的超人氣糕點，他還有出各種的不同口味的漂亮雪花，其他點心那些評論的老顧客也都很推

9.Casa Infante

我個人覺得這間應該是IG網紅打卡店之類的，產品很漂亮很貴，店內的裝潢也很夢幻，但是說真的冰淇淋味道普普而已（標準吃裝潢的）不過他們家的baba做的還蠻漂亮的，不是常見的蘑菇狀。還蠻多女生來這買baba

關於這個拿坡里小吃，有一個超級長的故事，不過我們把它稍微簡化一下，就是有一個法國宮廷料理長，因為他的主子吃瑪德蓮吃膩了，於是把它浸到marsala甜酒裡面再拿去烤，這個就是baba的起源，聽說後來baba的蘑菇形狀是仿照土耳其的君士坦丁堡的樣子去做的。後來這個料理長還去巴黎開店...這個點心為什麼會變成拿坡里的代表呢？因為他在1836年隨行拜訪拿坡里公國的時候獻給當時的國王。後來就變成宮廷料理並且第一次被寫入當時的法定義式料理食譜紀錄裡。不過後來規定的baba所浸的酒變成了朗姆酒或是波西塔納地區產的檸檬酒這兩個版本（後世一直在為了這件事而爭執，不過大部分還是以朗姆酒版本為大宗）🥃🥃🥃建議在專門店吃baba就好因為它很難做，朗姆酒浸太多會太濕、太少會太乾，外皮烤太久太焦，不久太生

9.Mennella Il Gelato

1969年創立的冰淇淋老店，這個也是在Toledo購物街上的美食，但是品質比前面的網美店好，不僅冰淇淋餅皮是機器在現場現壓現捲先做的，100%純天然新鮮現做的冰淇淋給的也很打球還可以免費加一勺鮮奶油，價格也比較親民👍👍👍
然後我也沒吃到可惡😅😅😅

「市集美食」
Mercato Pignasecca

這個市集是拿坡里最老最活躍的市集，基本上很多電視台都會來採訪。除了不少新鮮漁獲以外還有很多平價的炸物小吃店，基本上拿坡里的東西都有一定的水準啦！義大利主廚推薦這裡的祖傳秘方Frittata（義式小烘蛋，2歐）、Frittata di pasta(含義大利麵的烘蛋）但是我不知道店名，請用嘴巴google🤣

下面介紹的是在市集裡面的知名當地特色菜採訪店

「美味的黑暗料理」

10.Le Zendraglie

節目「料理黑手黨」裡的店家常客說如果豬雜番茄濃湯是樂曲的話，Antonio就是歌神了🤣🤣🤣好誇張的比喻，裡面用了豬舌、豬肺、豬心、豬氣管等部位，不過要處理好這些並不是那麼容易，建議還是在專門店吃吃就好🤣其實就像巴勒莫是因為當時一個外地去那裏當肉販工作，因為生活不易才研發了牛脾包之類的，當時的拿坡里農村社會生活的相當清苦，那些肉主要都賣給貴族有錢人，剩餘他們不吃的部份，他們就拿來研發新菜色😅😅
這道菜是拿坡里最古老也仍是最受當地人歡迎的小吃之一

傳統的豬雜濃湯是用豬的各種內部味，先用水煮過去腥去雜質後，再把它用豬油拌炒過，最後加上微辣的番茄特調醬汁以及各種蔬菜例如芹菜胡蘿蔔去熬成濃湯，可以直接吃、配麵包吃或是煮成更濃稠狀加在義大利麵上🍝

菜單翻譯：

Zuppa forte招牌豬雜番茄濃湯
Zuppa marescialla牛肚湯
建議大家試一下各種部位的內臟冷盤沙拉🤣（insalata di trippa）水煮內臟，只有加鹽跟檸檬調味，這家店的名字就叫做「臉和腳」臉是牛臉、腳是帶骨豬腳，一定要來這嚐試一下

沒有吃到這家超可惜的，因為我超超超超級想吃的😫😫😫

「購物街美食」

拿坡里的知名平價購物街Toledo street（那裏有個地鐵站很方便），據說這個名字是跟南義地區曾經是西班牙的領土有關（西班牙也有一個有名的城市叫做Toledo)

11.Passione Di Sofì

店門口就看到一個大籃子上面放著他們家的包裝紙，這間店炸海鮮小有名氣，拿坡里這種漁獲多靠海的城市，一定要來一點海鮮的啊，如果你的胃還有一小點空間記得來這試試✌️✌️😎

價格：油炸海鮮拼盤7歐

12.一元檸檬冰沙小攤販

我找不到他的定位位置，只能告訴你他通常在Toledo街上的Stroili銀樓旁邊擺攤，比起卡布里島5歐一杯的黑心檸檬冰沙，這裡賣的價錢真是太佛心了，吃太多油膩食物記得來一杯酸酸甜甜的冰沙喔(雖然義大利冰沙真的蠻酸的🤣）

《安全上的注意事項》

如果你真的很擔心行李拖到一半被搶之類的，你可以乾脆叫個Uber,my taxi什麼的載你到你的飯店（車資4-6歐），基本上你身上帶一個LV包去義大利玩根本就是告訴小偷們來找你下手吧🤣🤣🤣

我身上連背包都不帶，手機、相機平常都藏在衣服或外套裡。平常不會隨便拿出來，在義大利不管哪個地方都要小心任何在盯著你看或是靠近你的人

而且我們在拿坡里的私鐵上只有遇到小鮮肉帥哥、好心大叔讓位給我們之類的事情，其他就沒有了，大家根本已經忘了這是義大利治安最差的城市了吧😅

*告訴大家千萬別住蘇連多，覺得被坑死，booking的房東用各種奇怪的名義跟你收錢（拿鑰匙費居然要30歐！），而且住一晚一個人加那些雜費起碼一千台幣🙄我後來打給booking抗議房東跟我們要求了很多上面沒有列舉的費用，房東最後才沒跟我們收，而且蘇連多不管哪一家的住宿飯店都離車站超遠的，起碼走15-20分，走去碼頭大約25-30分而且還要爬坡走很長的樓梯（所幸放棄搭計程車）去萬惡之城拿坡里住就好，便宜、夜景不錯、美食多🤣🤣🤣
到各種民宿和飯店的路上是沒有公車的，你就死心吧🤣

最後那個房東有一間浴室沒熱水還不來修、一間廁所沒有衛生紙🙄🙄🙄幸好另一間小浴室有熱水，不然我又要再一次重感冒了

不過你口袋深可以出門都搭計程車的，我就覺得你住蘇連多豪華hotel比較好（一晚起碼兩千台幣）🤣🤣🤣

《景點推薦》
老實說這裡的景點沒啥看點的說，跟威尼斯那些差太多了，不過我還是加減介紹一下🤣🤣

1.新堡

這個中古世紀建的城堡不知道為什麼叫「新堡」看起來實在不太新耶😅😅😅他是拿坡里的門面所以一定要來打卡一下（誤，我看有人說它在傍晚黃昏時分會特別漂亮，可能我沒有挑到良辰吉時過來所以看起來覺得比較普通🤣🤣🤣入場是免費的，但是你可以花一點錢去參加導覽團（10歐）登上塔頂的一邊可以看到維蘇威火山另一面可以見到海港來往的船隻，裡面有很多作品裝飾是文藝復興時期的創作，不過我們只有路過（以為參觀要錢）所以沒辦法拍漂亮的內部照登頂照給大家欣賞😅😅😅

2.保羅聖芳濟教堂

這是義大利新古典主義建築最具代表性的典範之一，拿坡里的第一座教堂，不過它還是蠻新的（1817-1846年建立）

這個教堂可以免費參觀的（門口附近還有免費廁所👍）不過一走進去我以為時空錯亂我又回到萬神殿了🤣🤣🤣
不過這次雨水似乎不會滴進來了😅

不過你看到廣場可能會有點失望，因為滿地的屁孩跟垃圾紙張到處飄，你就可以體驗何為義大利第一髒亂治安差的感覺了🤣

3.蛋堡

古老的城堡，外型很素不過可以看到不錯的海景（入場費免費）可是我看圖片沒有阿瑪菲海岸那些漂亮🤔🤔🤔附近售賣的紀念品據說也很便宜，不過缺點是他離拿坡里市中心有多遠😅😅😅恐怕要搭公車才比較容易到，附近還有那一家知名的炸披薩老店，逛完可以去品嚐一下😋

4.但丁廣場

這個東西真的沒什麼資料呢，大概就是有一個紀念但丁的雕像罷了，其他都沒有寫🤣🤣🤣

5.不勒斯國立考古博物館
*激推

如果你去過龐貝古城，被當時的文物文明深深吸引的話，一定要來這個地方開開眼界，大部分的龐貝古文物、被火山灰埋住的遺體（雖然是用石膏用在殘骸上重塑出來當時的狀況）目前龐貝那邊幾乎都剩下建築外觀跟一小部分古文物，如果你想了解更詳細的龐貝古文明全貌可以來這邊參觀，我實在是沒時間了不然就去了，我個人覺得龐貝規劃的滿好的，連我們沒租導覽的也參觀的很開心👍👍👍

7.人民投票廣場

可以從這裡的Montesanto纜車站搭上去城堡看海景、城市景色（為什麼我沒上去？因為我餓了去跟披薩你儂我儂去了🤣）

8.Castel Sant'Elmo聖埃莫堡

14世紀初完成的中世紀堡壘，外表素到不能在素了，可能路過十次你都不會注意到它的存在的那種🤣🤣🤣
（抱歉我就是實話實說類型的攻略寫手，不會每個都寫好棒棒🤣）

在這裡可以眺望海景、整片的市景，但是我得提醒你這裡的景色可能跟威尼斯、阿瑪菲海岸那邊的漂亮程度可能差的非常多，說不定上去你就後悔幹嘛花錢上來這🤣🤣🤣
除了景色以外也有很漂亮的帆船展示品、城堡內古董展示櫃和一個當代藝術畫廊之類的。

門票（含電梯）2.5歐

9.那不勒斯王宫

這個我只有路過拍拍照而已，因為沒有看起來特別宏偉壯觀就沒進去看了，對皇宮沒有特別有興趣的別浪費錢了，看預覽圖覺得普普（我在歐洲起碼參觀過幾十個皇宮城堡了，能讓我印象深刻很喜歡的很少...）

10.聖卡洛劇院

建於1737年歐洲最古老的劇院之一，由波旁王朝查爾斯三世建成，我知道有些人是歌劇迷之類的，所以特別介紹了這個地方，裡面看起來真的真的非常漂亮，有奧地利維也納劇院的風格👍
有些人甚至讚美他是歐洲最美的歌劇院之一🎻🎻🎻
椅子也是高級木製扶椅鋪上紅色靠墊、坐墊上用的是天鵝絨布料

房間的天花板設計成類似鼓的皮膚一樣能讓聲音放大，回音也特別出色，不過似乎無法免費參觀必須要購買聽歌劇的票之類的🤔

11.翁貝托一世長廊

建於1887-1890年，是拿坡里最美麗壯觀的畫廊，不過我沒拍到它晚上開燈的照片可惜😫
這個地方反而是整個拿坡里建築群最令我印象深刻的地方🌷🌷

這個地方讓我想起米蘭的Duomo Cathedral 旁的艾曼紐二世迴廊😅😅😅感覺這裡的風格都有點copy其它地區建築的風格耶😅😅😅

這裡裡面幾乎都是一些平價的牌子如Zara、3C商品、咖啡店跟麥當勞之類的，大部分義大利人會推薦有一家小攤販La Sfogliatella Mary（在前往Toledo街的入口）這裡的Sfogliatella義式夾心千層酥非常美味（1.7歐）走過路過不要錯過囉😎😎😎

11.國立卡波迪蒙特博物館
（這個沒空可以不用看）

這裡原本是皇宮建築，後來用來當展示中心，收集13世紀到現代的作品。
有大量的畫作、軍械庫的展覽
裡面也有一些名畫家的畫作（波提切利、拉斐爾、卡拉瓦喬）

含皇宮參觀的套票12歐，旁邊的公園免費參觀，沒有寫他有沒有語音導覽🤔🤔🤔

《女性最愛瞎拼區》

1.Largo Enrico Berlinguer旁的假日市集

這個雖然在地圖上看不到，不過那裏確實有一個像文創市集一樣的地方，賣手藝品、平價的擺飾品、各種背袋之類的，有興趣可以去逛逛

2.Toledo街，那裏是拿坡里最大的平價瞎拼街，除了各種包包、精品甚至可以店很多，看到拿坡里足球隊的周邊商品😅除此之外，賣手工巧克力、炸物、冰淇淋、baba和各種甜點店很多，根本是為女性打造的專屬購物街

《優質平價住宿》（附早餐）：

http://www.booking.com/Share-dlKoa2

很推薦的booking 9.2分住宿
我們那天因為要搭晚上的車回米蘭，不過我的旅伴有在拿坡里訂了這間，進去發現超棒的，房東人很好，付20cent就可以使用電梯，住三人房一晚才600多附早餐，走三分鐘就到車站了

而且房間很大浴室又超多毛巾的，主人也同意讓我們寄放個行李在他房間就走
（我為什麼要訂蘇連多的啊😭）
（感謝旅伴們沒跟我計較😚）

如果這個還是太貴了，可以訂Airbnb的，一晚還有500不到的

《交通》

市區內一般以走路和巴士（車票1.1歐幾乎都可以到，港口那裏可以搭船

私鐵要注意問一下好心路人跟車上的工作人員是不是往蘇連多的車（因為他那邊都沒有可以看時刻表什麼的地方😅）
私鐵的車廂非常少，好像四節而已，請大家想辦法擠上去吧，五月去就很難擠了，六到八月去的請加油👍👍👍
（可能下一台車會讓你等20分以上）

我們最後回米蘭的四床式夜舖火車也是在這個車站搭的，（我們晚上八九點還在提行李到處晃🤣）還遇到好心的大叔幫忙我們提行李拍照之類的（我根本已經忘記這是義大利治安最差的地區了吧🤔）

*終於完成超長攻略了，喜歡我的文章請按讚分享喔🤗