◑ PHOTOBOOK ◑
《SHIBUYA1999》
野上眞宏、高橋正実
辣妹文化(gal culture)是從上個世紀末的日本澀谷開始流行起來。1990年代末，年輕女孩擠爆了熱鬧的澀谷中央街，創造了一個獨一無二的文化運動，最終襲捲了整個日本。來自各地的人們都往澀谷湧去，夢想著穿上澀谷109百貨的時髦衣裳。這本書呈現了1999年日本澀谷這一幅生氣十足的場景。
「gal」(女孩、小妞) 是英語對「girl」的俗稱，這個外來語在日本被唸成「ギャル」(gyaru)，一開始是用來形容年輕活潑的女性，但在1990年代初——隨著日本進入經濟泡沫化之後，人們開始將妝扮奢華的年輕女性稱為「イケイケギャル」(ike-ike gal，意指充滿活力的女性)，而隨著流行擴散，大批的日本高校女生也開始往澀谷聚集，她們被稱為「コギャル」(ko-gal)，並為日本女孩塑造了一個全新的形象。
乍看這種女孩時尚或許會以為是對西方人的模仿，但細看這場文化運動的本質，女孩們的打扮其實是想要能夠更像離她們比較近的那些人——澀谷109百貨的潮店店員、雜誌模特兒和日本音樂人。這種最初源自美國西岸的流行風格，卻因日本女孩們的採納，不經意地成為一種在地本土版的時尚風潮。她們打造的這場運動，不只展現了日本文化和社會情境，也藉此連結至每個女孩的身體魅力……。
這本書生動地捕捉了當年澀谷辣妹文化最為興盛的那個時刻。就我所知，沒有一本書提供了如此全面的辣妹文化考查。就文化意義上而言，本書是對20世紀末青年文化的一份重要紀錄。
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SHIBUYA1999
by Mike NOGAMI & Masami TAKAHASHI
Gal culture flourished in Shibuya at the end of 20th century. In the late 1990s, young girls filled Shibuya's Centre Gai Street and began creating a unique cultural movement that would eventually spread throughout Japan. People came from all over the country to gather in Shibuya, having long dreamt of dressing themselves in the latest outfits from Shibuya 109. This book presents the vivid scenes that unfolded in Shibuya in 1999.
The word “gal” – pronounced gyaru in Japanese – came straight from casual American vernacular. The word was initially used in Japan to describe young and active women, but in the early 1990s – as the country entered the bubble era – young women with luxurious lifestyles became known as “ike-ike gals” (girls in high spirits). Following in their footsteps, high school girls also started to congregate in Shibuya. Referred to as “ko-gals”, they contributed to a new image for gals in Japan.
At first glance, gal fashion may seem like an imitation of its western counterparts, but at the core of this movement was the motivation to dress like people who were far less distant: Shibuya 109’s charismatic shop staff, magazine models and domestic musicians. By adopting this style, the gals unconsciously created a localized version of the fashion trends that had originated on America’s West Coast. In doing so, they built a movement that was not only aligned with Japanese culture and social context, but was also linked to each gal's physical characteristics...
This book vividly captures the essence of youth at a time when Shibuya gal culture was blossoming. To my knowledge there are no other books that provide such a comprehensive record of ganguro gal culture. In terms of its cultural significance, this book serves as an important document of youth culture in the late 20th century.
#shibuya #渋谷 #109辣妹 #photobook
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