很快跟大家見面,我的新書,《消失中的味道》,三聯出版。
這本書的緣起其實沒有什麼偉大的抱負,也不曾有過任何精心策劃——在5年前,我當時為「家全七福」的創辦人七哥在他報章的專欄代筆,日復一日跟他相處,聽他講了許多關於粵菜食材、老菜,甚至人事變遷的故事…….從七哥口中吐出的許多菜名,可說是聞所未聞,菜式當然都近乎絕跡。出自一種傳媒人的本能,覺得應該好好運用我的文字,為飲食文化作保育。於是,從七哥開始,到後來採訪了不同大廚、前輩,略盡綿力地搜集了一個又一個幾近失傳的老菜故事,刊登在我《信報》的專欄上,這個系列叫做「消失中的味道」。
這本書,就是這三年多來斷斷續續刊登在專欄中的文章結集。
僅以此書獻給曾經在「消失中的味道」文章系列中幫助我的大廚、前輩們:七哥、大師姐、譚國鋒師傅、梁輝雄師傅、鄧浩宏師傅、鄧家濠師傅、勝哥、葉一南。希望這一個比較有系統的書寫,能夠為粵菜傳承留下紀錄,也希望有機會繼續寫下去。
很高興能藉著文字感染你,很高興能藉著文字反饋帶來我許多美好時光的飲食世界。
My new book 《The Vanishing Flavours of Cantonese Cuisine》,coming soon!!!!! Real soon!!! Probably the first book in Cantonese cuisine writing vanishing dishes systematically.
The origin of this book neither started with a grand ambition or great planning. Around 5 years ago, when I was ghostwriting for the founder of Seventh Son, Chef Chui, I listened to his stories everyday from Cantonese ingredients to traditional dishes, and even about changes of time… I had never heard of some of the dishes that came out of Chef Chui’s mouth, then some were nearly extinct. Out of a media instinct, I thought I should use my words to preserve the culinary culture. So started with Chef Chui, I began to interview other chefs and forebearers, doing what I can, I collected stories after stories of traditional dishes that were vanishing, published them in my column in the Hong Kong Economic Journal, called it “The Vanishing Flavours of Cantonese Cuisine”. This book is a collection of the articles from this column.
I want to use this book to thank all the chefs and forebearers that had helped me with these articles: Chef Chui, Dashijie, Chef Tam Kwok Fung, Chef Leung Fai Hung, Chef Edwin Tang, Chef Jayson Tang, Sing Gor and Danny Ip. I hope this more systematic collection can be a record for he future of Cantonese cuisine and may this collection continues to grow.
I’m happy that my words have touched your lives, and is content to use words to contribute back to the culinary world that has given me much good times.
#消失中的味道 #粵菜文化 #飲食文化保育 #謝嫣薇 #agneschee #cantonesecuisine #vanishingflavours #vanishingflavoursofcantonesecuisine #systematiccollection #chinesefood #chinesecuisine #cantonesecuisinelover #chinesecuisinelover #chineseculinary #vanishingdish #olddishes #cantonesefood #hkej #newyorktimesfood
同時也有10000部Youtube影片,追蹤數超過62萬的網紅Bryan Wee,也在其Youtube影片中提到,...
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今天是出版社的新書發佈記者會,繼續來幫自己打書——
《消失中的味道》,三聯出版。
香港書展,7月17號正式推出,三聯攤位編號是1E-B04。從1E入口處便看見。
紀錄的是廣東菜裡近乎在市面上絕跡的老菜,如燒雲腿雪花雞片、仙鶴神針、甫魚婆參扒大鴨、生財顯貴雞、魚白鳳肝炒仙掌、崑崙鮑甫⋯⋯
三年多的書寫,終於結冊成書。
接著在香港、深圳、廣州都會有講座及分享會,敬請期待喔。
奥斯卡最佳藝術指導得主葉錦添的新書《神物我如》,亦由三聯出版,也是今期書展重點推介的書之一。
今天在記者會上一看到書名就喜歡得不得了,馬上說:「我下一本書就叫《食物我如》!」
#消失中的味道 #粵菜文化 #飲食文化保育 #謝嫣薇 #agneschee #cantonesecuisine #vanishingflavours #vanishingflavoursofcantonesecuisine #systematiccollection #chinesefood #chinesecuisine #cantonesecuisinelover #chinesecuisinelover #chineseculinary #vanishingdish #olddishes #cantonesefood #hkej #newyorktimesfood
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My weekly food column published in Hong Kong Economic Journal 3 weeks ago : 《The 「disappearing 」version of double boiled winter melon bowl 》
Yung Kee Restaurant’s (鏞記) double boiled winter melon soup (in melon bowl ) retains the charm of the good old times. Using pure frog broth as soup base, it is clear and fragrant, genuinely thirst quenching and relieves summer heat.
Ronald Kam, the owner of Yung Kee told me that in the old days, it was very common to use frog broth as a base for this dish. Back then, most people were farmers, hence field frogs were easily found and readily available. It was cheap too. As time went by, as fields diminished, so did field frogs. People turned to using chicken or pork broth instead, so did Yung Kee. For this special edition, Ronald ordered fresh field frogs to make broth. I was never a big fan of double boiled winter melon soup. I found it tacky – the subtle taste of winter melon often overpowered by the flavour of meat and ham. Yung Kee’s version in pure frog broth proved how ignorant I was. The soup was a breath of fresh air. I finally understood the origin beauty of this dish!
鏞記還原了舊時代冬瓜盅有氣質的味道——用純田雞湯做湯底,得出清澄芳馨的效果,喝罷真正消暑生津。
鏞記老闆禮哥說,在舊時代,田雞湯做冬瓜盅湯底很普及,一來務農社會,田雞是個唾手可得的食材,二來廉價。但隨著時代變遷,田雞隨著田地一併漸漸消失,純田雞湯底去做冬瓜盅反而難,便開始用上湯來做此菜。鏞記也一樣,平常他們賣的冬瓜盅,是上湯兑二湯來做湯底,此次的特別版,禮哥特地訂新鮮田雞來做湯底。我從來都不特別喜歡吃冬瓜盅,總覺得上湯味裡頭的肉味、火腿味的濃帶三分俗氣,有點偏差的冬瓜盅的原意,這個純田雞湯底的冬瓜盅,如此清麗馨美,我真是孤陋寡聞,吃到了這個「消失中」的版本,才理解冬瓜盅絕妙的美!
@yungkeehk @hkej1973
#yungkee #yungkeerestaurant #yungkeerestaurant鏞記酒家 #鏞記酒家 #cantonesecuisine #cantonesefood #cantonesecuisinelover #olddish #frogbroth #frogconsomme #vanishingflavoursofcantonesecuisine #wintermelonsoup #doubleboiledwintermelonsoup #agnescheefoodcolumn #agnescheefoodcritic #foodcriticschoice #冬瓜盅 #古法冬瓜盅
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